Distance about 2.5 miles - 4 km: an hour and a half at an easy pace
Starting out from Port Erin with a short climb
A pleasant walk along the clifftops
Strange rocks, and a short tricky section
Unusual sights at the restaurant
Return journey - with a less satisfactory walk at Port Mary
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This was perhaps the best of the walks for the scenery and the all-round experience. It was still under 3 miles (5 km) and just took about an hour and a half, but it was splendid weather, a path going up and down above the cliffs, and every-changing views with an abundance of wild flowers.
Starting out from Port Erin with a short climb
The five of us set out mid-morning after parking at the southern end of the road around Port Erin bay, continuing beyond the section facing the beach along Breakwater Road. There was space to park next to the Marine Laboratory, where (I found out later) we could have visited a Marine Interpretation Centre containing information about the island’s rich marine life.
The cliff trail started from here, climbing up the bank behind the building, alongside a fine high stone wall (see photo below). It was a good path, and soon provided us with views over the wall to the bay, with the tower on Bradda Head clearly visible in the morning sunshine. Gulls were gathering on the grassy area just beyond the wall.
Then the path reached the edge of the cliff and turned sharply to the left, and uphill. We could look down on a sea stack below as we walked slowly up the steeper slope. This was the main climb of the entire walk, and it didn’t take us too long before the path levelled off again. We weren’t in a hurry, taking time to enjoy the views, and we were happy to let a group of more energetic walkers go past.
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A pleasant walk along the clifftops
From there it was an easy walk, up and down along the tops of the cliffs, but far enough back from them not to be exposed to any steep bits. We were walking across the hillside above the clifftops, and the slope was resplendent with heathers and other plants in bloom. Especially around the rocks and even on tops of the stone walls, there were small colourful plants that would look perfect in a garden rockery!
There was one sheltered dip in the route, just after we had stepped across a little stream, where we could relax on the grass and look out at the seascape below. It seemed worth taking the time, and prolonging the enjoyment of being out in the sunshine with such a great view. The sheep grazing behind us seemed to be gazing down and wondering what we were up to! A couple of other walkers passed by, in a bit more of a hurry.
Setting off again up another short climb, we reached a high point on the path and caught our first good view along to the Calf of Man – the small island lying just off the south-west corner of the Isle of Man. Then we descended gently before climbing over a stile over a wall, and continued on.
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Strange rocks, and a short tricky section
There was an exposed, more rocky area to the right, where I paused to take photos of the rocks set against the background view, before a steeper descent which took us to some strange rock formations on the right. These were like small cliffs separated by clefts, appearing to be caused by faulting in the rocks. We must have been close to the top of the actual cliffs, and explored around for a while before continuing.
There was a short section of the path where we had to take a little more care walking round a rocky outcrop and down the other side, but there was no significant exposure. Then it was an easy descent towards the Calf of Man. The line of cliffs had given way to a rocky shoreline which curved round the tip of the island, and we saw a small scattered crowd of people standing on rocks looking at the water. Getting closer, we were able to catch glimpses of movements in the water, and then we could just about make out the heads of a couple of seals appearing then dipping below the gentle waves again (see the final photo).
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Unusual sights at the restaurant
Just above was a car park, spread out on two levels, and behind it stood a fine looking modern building with a wide glazed frontage, and a long queue of people waiting to go into the door on the right. This was the restaurant which my brother and sister-in-law had told me about from a previous visit, where the scones were much prized!
We were due to meet the other members of our party here – they had found other things to do that morning, but wanted to try the scones as well! The queue susbsided – it had resulted from two tour coaches arriving at the same time – and we enjoyed a good light lunch of soup and scones. The inside of the restaurant had paintings of the various seabirds on the ceiling, and the windows provided spectacular views across to the Calf of Man and the little rocky islet in between.
There were a couple of more unusual sights: one was of a seagull that landed on one of the tables outside as soon as the customers had departed, looking for scraps. It’s at times like this that you appreciate how big these birds are, and how big a wingspan they have. It was plenty big enough to tip over a drinks glass which smashed on the paving underneath. The other was of Terry Waite, the clergyman and one-time hostage in Lebanon, visiting for a spot of seal watching.
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Return journey - with a less satisfactory walk at Port Mary
After taking all this in, and settling up the bill, we set off in the cars. The narrow winding road climbed up to the hamlet of Creagneash, with its thatched cottages and Folk Museum – worth a visit no doubt, but we went instead to Port Mary on the opposite (south) side of the isthmus from Port Erin. My parents had been there many years previously, and we wanted to have a walk around it. This was a less successful walk – along the shore from the harbour into the wind. The skies had clouded over and it was much cooler. We couldn’t find a decent beach, and it wasn’t the weather to enjoy one anyway. We walked back past a line of fine houses typical of traditional seaside resorts but didn’t see any tempting tea rooms, so we drove back to the hotel.
Contributed by: Andrew Llanwarne - April 2006
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The dry stone wall above the Marine Laboratory
Boisterous seagulls taking over the restaurant !
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People looking out for seals
