Ashness Bridge to Rosthwaite via Watendlath
This unassuming route in the Lake District does not take you to any of the high peaks, but it has special significance for our family as Watendlath was a favourite place of our Mum and we had all enjoyed visits there with her, before her death in 2001.
We went back there on what would have been her 80th birthday, on 9 March 2002, to scatter her ashes from the little packhorse bridge. Four and a half years later we returned with the ashes of our Dad, sending these down the fast-flowing stream towards Derwentwater.
We didn't complete the full walk this time, but several of us had done so previously. It's a beautiful walk, gently strenuous. Part of it is on the little road which winds its way to Watendlath so you have to keep an ear open for cars on that section. You can make use of the regular boat service on the lake from Keswich and the bus back from Borrowdale to complete the circuit. Or you can walk out from Keswick along a lovely stretch of the lake shore and then the roadside footpath until the turnoff for Ashness Bridge and Watendlath. This is Ashness Gate.
From here, there's a short steep climb on the road up to Ashness Bridge to get your heart pumping, before you reach perhaps the best-known viewpoint in the entire Lake District. My previous visits pre-date digital photography, so I only have a couple of photos of the bridge on a rather grey October afternoon taken as the rain started again. On such a day, the volume of rainfall meant that the stream was a raging torrent, presenting an impressive sight especially from below the bridge. From above it, on a clear day, you will see the classic view across Derwentwater towards Keswick, with Skiddaw looking majestic in the distance. I always felt Skiddaw was the least shapely of the high Lakeland peaks, but on a cool spring day it can look magnificent with a fresh covering of snow, fitting perfectly into the picture.
The next section of the walk continues uphill on the road through woodland, before you are able to turn off to the right through the trees to reach the top of the crags overlooking Derwentwater. I prefer this view to the one at the bridge, as it includes some of my favourite hills - the lovely ridge from Catbells to Maiden Moor, and the knobbly shape of Causey Pike at one end of the Grisedale Horseshoe - and the river delta extending into the lake down below. To look down on a real delta like this is a thrilling sight for any geographer, and may be of interest to others as well.
Further up the road a clear track leads down to the right, over a bridge, then follows the west side of the stream up to Watendlath. From there it continues up a slope past Watendlath Tarn, heading south-west towards Rosthwaite in Borrowdale. It's only about 2.5 miles or so up to Watendlath, and another 1.5 miles over to Rosthwaite, but it's worth taking your time to enjoy the scenery. A good half-day's walk.
We saw a group pushing their bikes up the track towards Rosthwaite, which seemed like making life more difficult than it needed to be!
For our abbreviated walk after the scattering of the ashes, we approached the path back to Ashness across the little bridge from Watendlath itself, turning down the path which follows the stream at first then bends left past a prominent rocky knoll. This hillock is a good viewpoint looking down over the green valley towards the woods at Ashness, and has probably been the site for numerous picnics. On the other side of the knoll the stream thunders down a waterfall, not high but quite mighty after heavy rainfall, before meandering through the floor of the valley.
The recent rain also meant that the path was flooded in places, including this section where it turned to the left. We weren't wearing walking boots, so had to pick our steps carefully on stepping stones. A short climb took us a little way up the bracken-covered hillside, then the path bent to the right alongside a drystone wall. There was more water to be avoided, before we reached a wooden gate which we had arranged to be erected after our previous visit in memory of our mother. We spent a bit of time there, taking in the scene. I remembered the last time, when my Dad had walked along here to see where the gate would be positioned.
The others turned back, but I went on beyond this point, across another series of large stepping stones, then down a slope past trees to cross another small stream. More walkers were coming up the path, in twos and fours - clearly it's a popular walk. The sun had started to break through the clouds and the scene was delightful.
It was time to turn back - the rest of the party had returned to Watendlath already. By the time I got back they were already enjoying teas and hot chocolate at the tea room that faces the bridge. A group of cyclists were pushing their bikes up the next section of the path leading over to Borrowdale. As far as I could remember, this was a rougher section with quite a steam descent down to Rosthwaite, and I wondered how they would get on. I didn't think they'd be able ot do any cycling before getting back to the road.
The tearoom garden was busy - for a wet Sunday in late October there were plenty of other people about, partly explained by the English half-term holidays. Keswick had been chocker-block, and we had struggled to find somewhere to stay for the weekend.
There were also plenty of chaffinches around too, scrounging crumbs of scones and rockcakes. On the way back to the car, I stopped off to catch a view of the watery sunshine reflected off the surface of Watendlath lake. There were a couple of children having fun following a white rabbit across the farmyard.
Then we drove back down to the lakeside and on to Keswick - I felt rather guilty taking a car up and down this narrow winding road, requiring the hikers to stand to the side. The road presents some difficulties when you meet vehicles coming the other way! However these were special circumstances and we had a baby with us. Next time we gather there, we agreed, we will complete the full distance over to Rosthwaite using the ferry to get there and the bus to get back.
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