Beinn Fhada (1032m), Glen Affric
On the second full day of our visit to Glen Affric we knew we might be a bit slower after the efforts of the previous day on Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan. There was some debate about which hills to tackle, as we sat outside the youth hostel in the morning sunshine. Alistair was suffering from some kind of injury to his ankle, and seemed unlikely to manage another climb, but at least he'd knocked off the two munros he'd come for.
Mike, Les and I decided on the relatively easy option of Beinn Fhada, which we could see clearly just 3 or 4 miles (about 6 km) to the west of the youth hostel. What's more, instead of taking the lengthy route along Gleann Gniomhaidh in order to ascend from the north-west, we decided to head straight for the prow of the hill and come back the same way.
It's never quite that easy. We started out just after 10 am, and after a straightforward kilometre or so to a bridge across the Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh we had to double back on the other side to work our way around a large boggy area. Then we were on an ancient stalkers' path and things got easier for a while. It led up the side of the Fionn Gleann towards the Camban bothy and eventually out to Loch Duich at Morvich.
We followed it for a little more than a kilometre until it started climbing across the lower southern slope of Beinn Fhada, about 40 minutes after we had set out. From there we turned uphill, traversing to the right across a steep grassy hillside towards a gap in the crags above us. Once there, onto the shoulder of the hill, we turned up onto the ridge. Michael went one way, Les and I another, to work our way through the next line of crags, before we joined up on the first little top at the end of the ridge at around 600m. Alistair had followed us, more slowly and with a pronounced limp, but he stuck to the low-level path. We could see him for a while, away down there in the glen.
If anything the weather was improving; there had been quite a few large clouds around but they were breaking up and we were mostly in sunshine for the rest of the day. There was still some snow on the peaks from the day before, which gradually disappeared. The views also just got better and better as we gained height, particularly the unbroken line of peaks to the south from Ciste Dubh and Sgurr a' Bhealaich Dheirg through to the Five Sisters of Kintail.
To the north-east, Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan looked quite benign in the sunshine, and Les had a clear view of the Corbett (Sgurr Gaorsaic) he had climbed on his way back to the hostel. Eastwards we could see away down Glen Affric towards Loch Affric and the famous ancient Scots pine forests.
The ridge was mostly easy walking now, with lots of ups (mostly) and downs across boggy bits. We just had to pick our way, with tracks to follow here and there. After about an hour and a half we took a break in the sunshine on a grassy bank to enjoy a cup of tea and a bite to eat. Then on again, with a couple of steep climbs up grassy slopes. The first had a slightly tricky steep section where the route was unclear but we were soon over it. The second led up to the eastern top, and was easier than it looked.
We reached this first summit at 962m just before 1 pm, two and three-quarter hours after setting out. Now the view really opened up to the west, beyond the broad summit of Beinn Fhada which was still nearly 2 miles, about 3 km, away. We thought we could see the Quiraing on Skye, but later realised it was probably the hills of Raasay. And away to north, looking over Loch a' Bhealaich, we could see the mountains of Wester Ross away in the distance. Time for more refreshment and lots of photos. There was only a light breeze so we could relax and enjoy the view.
Setting off again, there was an easy descent on the broad grassy ridge, with a few areas of stones and another couple of low hills to cross before the route curved sharply round towards the north, then climbed the last 40 metres to the summit. There were more stones to be crossed here, and what looked like low terraces - caused by solifluction (movement of the soil) according to Les.
We'd seen quite a few other walkers on the top from a distance, and several others came and went. It was around 2.15 pm when we reached the summit cairn, and remarkably pleasant in the sunshine. Michael decided it was a good time for a snooze, and was joined by Les, giving a new meaning to the idea of sleepwalking. I just surveyed the view - by now we could see the Cuillins clearly to the west, and the Cairngorms covered in fresh snow to the east. There had been a glimpse of Ben Nevis in between the two tops, but now it was hidden again. Once they woke up the other two tried to identify the various distant summits, particularly those in Wester Ross such as Liathach and An Teallach.
There was one surprise - we could just see a helicopter touching down on top of one of the Five Sisters, presumably to rescue someone. And then it was away again.
We spent around 45 minutes on the summit before deciding we'd have to make our descent. It's not often you can do that on a Scottish mountain and not get cold, even in the summer. The route back was uneventful - just more sunshine and views as we picked our way back around the rocks and across the grassy hills, then down the steep bits.
The final section off the end of the hill was slightly awkward again. With several small hills, it was hard to know when we should turn to the right to head down. Finally we went a bit too far to the right, above the crags, and had to cut back across to the left and then down to find the steep grassy slope which we'd climbed up.
Once back down at the stalkers' path we carried on towards the hostel, pausing occasionally to kick away some of the blockages that were causing flooding of the path. A strange group walked towards us - three elderly women, carrying a couple of duffle bags between them. They looked like they'd got lost on the way home from church, but we heard later that they had been seen on top of at least two munros, and they were in their 70s!
The sun was still shining as we got back to the hostel around 6.15 pm, with plenty of time for showers before our final dinner.
Go to the other Glen Affric walk on Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan >
Go back to the Glen Affric introductory page >
Contributed by Andrew Llanwarne
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