Mount Ossa and The Overland Track, Tasmania, Part2
The Pelion Gap at an elevation of 1116 Metres lies more or less in the centre of the national park and this makes it the unofficial halfway point of the Overland Track. As such it is always liable to be a crowded spot and today is no exception. Some walkers are content to stop here and enjoy the spectacular views on a clear day but most will at least attempt the three and half hour round trip to the summit of Tasmania's highest mountain. I am well shattered after the morning's toil and sweat. My ankles are badly swollen from numerous Mosquito bites unwittingly sustained last night while we traded mountain tales with James and currently I'm not a happy bunny. The combination of these discomforts finds me only too willing to contemplate defeat and it takes Anna's firm resolve to get me moving again after lunch. We stash our sacks and then set off on our summit bid with Gore-Tex jackets, snack foods and three litres of water. Having started late in the day everyone we meet en route is now on the way back down and their advice and assessment of the remaining time to the summit varies according to their age and physical condition. More than once we consider turning around, but as we draw closer to the summit my flagging spirits rally and I know that we will make it.
There is no technical difficulty involved, the route is mostly on a well-worn track and if not then indulgent cairns mark the way. The final section across some exposed dolerite slabs and up a short boulder-choked gully is very steep and it does require care and some easy scrambling. You then cross a pathless rough rocky depression before making the final plod up easy slopes to the green carpeted summit of Tasmania's highest mountain. The expansive summit plateau is home to a large number of cushion plant communities. These vibrant emerald green plants are seemingly sturdy but each cushion is made up of numerous individual plants and a single careless step from a walker's boot can fracture the boster and leave it vulnerable to the affects of wind and rain. In this environment it would take years for the plant to recover and we are careful to avoid standing on them.
The view is well simply awesome and the wondrous grandeur of it will live long in our memories. To the North we are able to identify Barn Bluff and the serrated summit ridge of Cradle Mountain. Looking South we can see the now distant violet blue haze of Leeawuleena, the sleeping water. Nameless peaks, crumbling ridges, imposing stone ramparts and endless sky surround us. After two days trekking through insect infested bush and rainforest it is almost too much for us to take in.
At either side of the plateau ochre brown slabs and piles of boulders form the highest ground, the one to our right appears to be the slightly higher of the two and we head towards it. The clamber to the top is easy and a small cairn confirms our decision. There beneath a southern sky our eyes meet in a sparkle of pure joy and we hold each other close.
‘ God you smell almost as bad as me mountain boy.'
‘ Nice of you to mention it mountain girl.'
We find a place to sit down and then hushed by the wild loftiness of this lonely place, we glow at each other savouring the moment and the sweetness of our summit success to the full. Both of us are now feeling a deep sense of achievement and a serene spiritual well being that can only really be understood by those who take to the hills or seek to know the Buddha in themselves. This is the first mountain that we have climbed outside of Scotland and for the time being it also becomes our highest. Few words pass between us they are not needed, being here together and sharing this now is all that matters to us and times like these are the defining ones of a life. Mountain summits are sacred spaces and places where we can touch the inner silence that resides in the core of our being.
On the descent we continue to glow at each other and we dream of future mountain adventures. We talk about completing our last Munro, and of perhaps returning to Tasmania one day to attempt Federation Peak. This we had learned from James, is one of the most sought after summits for Australian climbers. A shapely aesthetic peak surrounded by dense virgin bush and remote from any road. James has attempted the peak on three occasions impenetrable bush scuppered him once, he returned with resolve heavy work gloves and garden sheers but he lucked out again and injury to his partner ended that attempt before they reached the mountain. Most recently bad weather turned him back little more than an hour from the summit and he readily admitted it hadn't been easy for him to resist the temptation to take a chance and go for the top. On such perfect days and in the aftermath of even a minor success all things seem possible for a while and even the impossible.
That night, too tired to go any further we make camp at the Pelion Gap. The position is extremely exposed and a sudden change in weather could have disastrous consequences. This unwelcome possibility is not in the forefront of our thoughts, as we wolf down an enjoyable meal of sweet and sour lamb with stale bread and if anything the loneliness of the location adds to our enjoyment.
‘ Hey this tastes okay!' I am genuinely surprised.
‘ Try it again when you're not hungry.' The culinary cynic replies.
‘ Shame about the chocolate cheesecake though. Doesn't look like its going to set.'
‘ I suppose we can always drink it.'
As the sun begins to set, the clouds roll up from Cradle Valley, silently cloaking the summit of Mount Ossa and massing just above the surrounding ridges. Moments later the golden orb sinks beneath the horizon and a line of fiery red brilliance glows briefly between the jagged ancient mountain crests and the dark brooding cloud base above. I lose myself in the wonder of this privileged moment of natural magic and darkness falls. I remain outside for a long time thrilled and exhilarated by the events of the day and reveling in the splendid isolation of our position. The nearest road is two days walk from here and I am thousands of miles from the country I call home and the misty mountains I now love. But right now that doesn't make me sad I am happy to be here in the power of the now with the woman I love.
Contributed by: David Meldrum
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