Derry Cairngorm (1155m, 3789ft), Braemar
Completing the round of all 284 munros is a great achievement which, by 2007, had been attained by 4000 climbers since Sir Hugh Munro first listed 236 of them in 1891. Some are straightforward ascents, in good weather, but many are in remote locations, or involve difficult ascents. Real passion, nerve and energy are required to achieve the feat.
Nearly a year ago I had been part of a small group visiting Glen Affric in the West Highlands when Alastair climbed 3 of the last 6 on his list. 2 more were ticked off later in the year, but he reserved Derry Cairngorm for April 26 this year. Most of the winter snow should have gone, and it should be too soon for the midges. And he was able to book up Braemar Youth Hostel for the festivities and accommodation afterwards.
We gathered at the Linn of Dee car park at the head of Deeside, ready for a 9 a.m. start. There was time enough to get our gear on, have a hot drink and make use of the National Trust for Scotland's environmentally friendly dry toilet. A few walkers and a couple of cyclists had started out earlier, to allow more time for the climb. Cycling up to Derry Lodge and back would have saved us an hour's walking either way, but there was time enough to climb Derry Cairngorm.
Alastair was already in good spirits. The forecast on the Mountain Weather Information Service (www.mwis.org.uk) had indicated wet and windy weather for the morning, improving in the afternoon, but it was dry and bright as we got ready to set off.
For lots more large size photos from the walk, see the Gallery.
Start of the walk
It was an enthusiastic bunch of people - over 30 of us - who started out along the track through the pine forest. Alastair had drawn in friends from the Grampian Club, former colleagues from Scottish Water, fellow folk musicians, and a few others he'd met along the way such as myself.
From the Linn of Dee car park the route winds through the trees for about half a mile then joins the main vehicle track running up the west side of the Lui Water, separated from the water by a young forest plantation.
It's an easy walk on the main track, and an easy cycle as well if you've got your bike. There's a bridge to cross a bit more than half a mile further on. If you're lucky and the skies are clear, you can see the series of hilltops leading up to Derry Cairngorm in the distance (we got the view on the way back). Then you drop down to the wooden bridge and continue on the east side, for another couple of miles (3km) to Derry Lodge.
As we walked along we still enjoyed glimpses of the sun even though dark clouds hung over upper Deeside to our left. A mountain rescue landrover passed us. Then another. And another. And a couple more, then an unmarked landrover. All spread out. Something was going on, we thought. And the sight of distress flares bursting in the sky ahead of us confirmed it.
We walked past the tall pines surrounding Derry Lodge, now boarded up but apparently due to be converted into a youth hoste (which would be a great step - this location is the perfect jumping-off point for several munros and for the crossing of the Lairig Ghru to Aviemore). The landrovers had been parked just beyond, down towards the water, and there was some sort of training event going on with distress flares still being launched into the clouds that were now getting thicker overhead.
In fact we were already starting to feel the gentle patter of raindrops, and gathered under the large trees by the Derry Burn to prepare for the next section of the walk. We'd soon be climbing, generating more heat, but it seemed like a good time to put on waterproof jacket and trousers.
The climb
Then we were off again, crossing the footbridge and climbing up through the belt of mature pines cloaking the lower slopes of Glen Derry. The route towards Derry Cairngorm went straight up the slope - the route to Ben Macdui went to the left, continuing up Glen Luibeg. At the top of the mature forest we crossed a stile into a plantation of young pines, then over another stile onto the open hillside.
The National Trust for Scotland had obviously been busy organising path-building, as there was a well-built path to follow up the first slope, with carefully constructed steps up the steeper bits. This took us over a shoulder onto a more gentle climb over an open hilltop, with the clouds reaching down towards us. There was a little rain and a lively breeze, not too much to make the walk difficult but enough to restrict photographic activity. Not that there were any views to be seen now.
Alastair called a halt on a sheltered slope for some refreshment, and the flasks appeared. Then he led us off the path in a westerly direction - strange, I thought, until we reached a cairn on a hilltop. This must be Carn Crom, the southerly top on the broad ridge, at 890m. We couldn't see much except each other and the pile of stones which constituted the cairn, but at least we knew where we were.
Then we headed back to the main track leading north towards Derry Cairngorm. It was getting a bit wetter and windier, and I was pleased to have put the overtrousers on at Derry Lodge. Others were struggling to get theirs on now against the blasts of wind.
There was a gentle climb, then it became a little steeper, up the broad slope, until we reached the lower top half a mile south of the summit at 1040m. By then it was 12.30 and we were aiming to reach the summit by 1.00 pm. However the wind was becoming stronger and we had begun to cross large patches of snow mixed with boulders, so the going was getting rougher. The party stuck together and continued, down a little, then climbing again.
I was hanging back as the back marker to make sure no-one got left behind, and I could see the line of figures stretching out ahead onto a snow slope through a gap in the clouds, almost as if they were lifting off into the sky!
However, by the time I reached the snow slope I realised it wasn't a matter of floating up to the summit, it was a real struggle against the wind which was blasting in from the west side (the left). And it really was strong enough to blow us over. Several of us at the back of the party were effectively stuck on the slope, unable to make progress. Waterproof covers for rucksacks were blowing off and pulling us over. I tried crossing over to the right to see if I could get into a more sheltered zone, but it was just as bad, and I struggled back again. Four of those at the back decided to call it a day, and retreated back down. I checked they were OK to descend then went back up the slope - a fifth walker was trapped by the wind and decided to go down and join them.
The last stretch to the top of the snow slope really was a battle, but then I reached the large boulder field that covers the flanks of Derry Cairngorm and clambered over the rocks to the summit, where I reported on the situation to the rest of the party. They were already starting to enjoy the contents of a couple of bottles of champagne that had been carefully carried up to the top. And to cap it all, Geoff had taken his bagpipes up there as well. I'd missed the first performance when Alastair reached the top, but Geoff gave a reprise for us all as we finished off our sandwiches.
Amazingly, the wind was much less strong on the summit, the rain had stopped and the clouds were beginning to lift. The snow-covered mountain tops began to appear on both sides, helping us to appreciate the moment much more than if we'd been encapsulated in cloud and rain.
The descent
Eventually we had to break the spell and set off down again. It was an easy and relaxed descent, although we still had to take care on the boulder fields. The clouds blew away by the time we reached the start of the final descent, and a flask of "Rusty Nail" was produced to mark the occasion.
The mountain rescue people were still engaged in their manoeuvres on the hillside, with a couple of stretchers to hoist over the fences. We let them go past, and also stopped to chat with a couple of foreign walkers who were just on their way up onto the hill, rather late in the day.
Down at Derry Lodge Alastair was greeted by another crowd of walkers, members of a group which he walks with along with his wife Jenny. More champagne was produced for another toast before the final walk back to the Linn of Dee in the sunshine.
The trek from Derry Lodge to Linn of Dee can be rather a trudge after a day on the hills, but if you're fortunate enough to have good weather as we did it can be a pleasure. Even so, I think most of us had aching limbs and sore feet by the time we got back to the cars.
Then we made our way to Braemar Youth Hostel to get cleaned up and enjoy an evening of festivities to mark the occasion. Alastair's speech following the meal was in itself a Walking Story which he could be proud of.
Contributed by Andrew Llanwarne
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