West Highland Way and Dumgoyne (427m), Strathblane, near Glasgow

A circular walk on the West Highland Way

I'm writing this as my wife Maggie and her friend Marion are spending their second night on the West Highland Way at Rowardennan, halfway up the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Yesterday I accompanied them for the first 6 miles of their walk, from Milngavie to Dumgoyne, having driven them over from Dundee. I had to get back to the car, and instead of retracing my steps along the Way, I decided to make it into a circular route by combining it with a climb of Dumgoyne.

Dumgoyne is one of those rugged little volcanic hills that are so common in central Scotland, whether it's the rocky crags of Arthurs' Seat above Edinburgh, the cliffs of Kinnoull Hill beside Perth, or the shapely peaks of the Lomond Hills which look so striking when viewed across Loch Leven from Kinross.

None of these are particularly high, but their hard rock gives them a dramatic prominence which other hills of similar height may lack. They all deserve to be treated with respect, as the slopes are steep and sometimes precipitous. And all of them are well worth climbing as they provide an invigorating short climb rewarded by a panoramic view (on a clear day). So, having climbed the others mentioned, I welcomed the opportunity to go up Dumgoyne, not expecting it to be too challenging.

We had a quiet drive across to Milngavie, early on a Saturday morning. It was sunny on the east coast but the cloud built up as we crossed over to the west. No matter, we thought, the weather forecasts had been unanimous in promising plenty of sunshine.

After some confusion over which of the seven car parks in Milngavie we were supposed to go to, in order to meet the van which would take the overnight cases up Drymen, we finally parked in a small car park just a matter of yards away from the obelisk which marks the start of the West Highland Way, in a pedestrianised shopping street close to the railway station (another nearby car park has public toilets next to it).

An iron archway has been erected behind the obelisk with the words "West Highland Way" wrought in it, and a couple of matching benches have been placed beneath, so there are plenty of props for walkers to get their photos taken at the start of the hike. We had to take our turn, and by the time we had taken photos on three cameras and a mobile phone there was a queue building up behind us.

The walk along the West Highland Way from Milngavie to Dumgoyne

We set off on the walk at 10.20, following the clear signs down through the car park and onto a path running down, away from the side of the road. It continues in a pretty straight direction for a while, through a belt of woodland, mostly out of sight from the housing on either side. Other footpaths are signposted to left and right. There's a short stretch through a park, and then more natural mixed woodland. Although there are a couple of turnings, they are all clearly marked.

Leaving the vicinity of Milngavie the path rises up to give a view back over the suburb, and then it re-enters woodland along the western fringe of Mugdock Wood and Country Park. My route went somewhat further, but it would be very easy to plan a circular walk starting along the Way and including Mugdock Country Park. We spoke briefly with a group of women walkers who seemed to be doing exactly that.

We reached a gate at the edge of the wood leading onto a narrow road and turned left along it, then quickly right onto the next section of path. This stretch was different in character, with woods still to the right, but marshy ground and reed beds to the left with open hillsides beyond. The Allander Water trickled through the reads. Rising over the higher ground we reached a loch on the other side - Craigallian Loch - and the path continued in a dead straight line to the left of it.

Other walkers were passing, mostly heading in the same direction as us. There was the occasional cyclist and runner as well, and one man with four large black dogs. Just beyond the loch we were surprised to find a row of timber holiday houses at Carbeth - maybe weekend retreats for Glaswegians?

Unfortunately by now the clouds had filled in completely and the occasional spots of drizzle had turned to fairly steady light rain. We decided it was no good being in denial ("well they said it was going to be a fine day") and stopped to put on the waterproofs.

We reached the road (B821) after another short strretch along the vehicle track. Another walker was ignoring the rain, sitting on a rock at the road end eating a sandwich. The West Highland Way goes left along it for about a quarter of a mile, requiring a bit of care as there's no footpath and the road bends gently one way then the other.

A metal gate opens onto the next section of footpath on the right, leading up alongside a line of old trees to another gate at a high point. From there we gained our first good view of Dumgoyne Hill, with its distinctive knobbly shape, and the strata of the Strathblane Hills to the right of it.

We now had an easy two-and-a-half miles to go to the settlement of Dumgoyne, down across more open country, curving round the left side of a wooded hill that seemed to be a baby sister of Dumgoyne itself. Then there was a short climb up to Dumgoyach Farm, a short stretch alongside the roadway leading down from the farmhouse, and a left turn onto the line of disused railway.

At this point I realised that I had lost my map somewhere - which was really stupid and the kind of thing you DON'T want to do if you're in unknown mountainous territory. Even here, it could scupper my plans. I had must have dropped it when I ran to catch up with the others at one point. I decided not to go back and look, causing a delay for everyone, but I was wondering how I would manage to find my way back without it. (I normally photocopy the section of a map which I'm using for a walk, to avoid the hassle of unfolding a complete map to check the route, often in wet and windy weather, and carry it in a see-through plastic mailing envelope - this is what I had lost - it's easy to carry and use, but just as easy to drop from an open pocket without noticing).

Glengoyne Distillery came closer, across to the right, during our last mile parallel to the A81. A sign invited weary walkers to take a break and call in to the distillery for a dram, with only 88 miles to go to Fort William!

Ten minutes later we reached the Beech Tree Inn at Dumgoyne, right next to the path. It offered meals, drinks and even tables for hikers to enjoy their own picnics. We found a picnic table outside and went in to order meals. Unfortunately it wouldn't be a great idea to sample the range of beers and wines on offer, although no doubt a few walkers give in to the temptation. For those just wanting to refill their water bottles a free service was provided, with a suggested contribution to Water Aid - a nice touch.

There was more rain as we waited for our meals beneath the parasol, but then Marion noticed that the group at the next table were looking at a sheet of paper inside a plastic sleeve. Could they have found my map? I went over to check, and yes they had! I'd been about to start trying to copy the essential details from Marion's West Highland Way map, although these weren't ideal for the route I had planned, and was also having second thoughts as I looked over my shoulder at the dark clouds rolling over Dumgoyne hilltop. This stroke of luck persuaded me to stick with my plan.

Climbing Dumgoyne

We said our farewells, but I ended up following the other two past the pub and across the main road, to find my path on the other side. I had to turn right (east) up the grassy field to Baptiston Farm. Despite the indication of a path on the map, I just had to clamber over a couple of gates and pick my way up the side of the field. I could walk to the right of the farm buildings onto the A875. I was hoping to find a way through onto the hillside here but couldn't see a gap in the trees, apart from where a drive led up to a large house. I ended up jogging down towards the junction with the A81, crossing over onto a footpath on the right-hand (west) side, and continuing towards the distillery. I could have stayed on the A81 and saved myself the climb up the field!

Just before the distillery itself were a number of houses on the left side of the road. Various cars were parked on the right, and young guys in shorts with running numbers on their vests were hanging around - this was the Strathblane Challenge (or something like that). I asked for the route onto the hill and was advised that the track right there at the start of the houses would lead up to the Pipeline Road, from where I could access the open hillside.

It was an unsurfaced roadway, winding up past the houses and then through woodland, before it reached another set of buildings (Blairgar). There were three men working on the driveway and clearing trees, and I was told I'd missed the gate (to the right) but I could go this way. Just beyond was the Pipeline Road which runs along the side of the hill all the way to Strathblane, a few hundred metres up from the A81.

There was a gate which I could climb over and I was into a field of long grass. At the top was a drystane dyke and barbed wire fence behind it. I negotiated this, dropped over the other side, and suddenly I was onto the hill - a mess of long grass and rushes and bracken. I could see another couple of walkers way up on the hill, seeming to be traversing it on their way up. As I started climbing over the hummocks I realised they were actually on their way down, taking care. There was no clear route to follow and I just headed up to the left of them towards the left shoulder of the hill. The more direct route seemed to involve steeper slopes and crags, although the markings suggested it was the route which most people had taken.

As I gained height I could see that I had missed the usual route up from the distillery - if I had gone a couple of hundred metres further along the pipeline road, I should have found a track leading up between the trees and through the wall onto the hillside. I joined this track further up and climbed steadily, keeping to the track as it curved to the left of the steepest slope. A couple of narrower tracks led off, up towards the craggy top. I didn't take these, but then I thought the main track might not be going up to the summit at all, but continuing around it towards the next hill.

I struck up the slope, off the track, which was a bad decision. The grass was wet and the hillside got much steeper. I started to get nervous as I looked up at the craggy bits above and wondered which was the safest line to take. This wasn't much fun. Why hadn't I just taken an easy path back to Milngavie? I edged round to the left and started to scramble over some rocks, then to my relief I found myself on a path which led up from the grassy shoulder of the hill below. If I had stayed on the main track I would have reached it and had an easier ascent.

The last bit was still steep, but with a more secure footing as I climbed up to the top. A couple of other walkers were sitting there enjoying the view (although it was windy and grey). Another couple were standing next to the summit pillar, looking north-west towards Loch Lomond which was just visible in the distance. Someone else was a few yards away to the left, having a sandwich.

I had a quick chat with the couple beside the pillar about the routes each of us had taken - they had come up the way I intended to descend and they pointed out the line to take towards Strathblane. Unfortunately the immediate route off the summit went out of sight below the crags. They said it was steep, but with steps in the rock.

I edged my way down gingerly, on a clear track, and decided to avoid the fainter track which turned down more steeply (although this seemed to be the one the people were indicating). I should have taken it. The wider track led to the right and soon it became clear that it would take me down the steep way towards the distillery, which I didn't want. Rather than climbing back up, I reckoned I could cut the corner - the slope looked OK, cloaked in bracken. Mostly it wasn't bad, but it was a struggle through the tall bracken stems, especially the last bit when I could clearly see the track coming down ahead of me but the bracken seemed to be tied in knots and the ground was falling away beneath it. One last push and I made it. Although quite steep and slippery, the track was fine now.

I was safely below the summit crags, and followed the track round to the left below them. It continued through more belts of bracken, below the next hill, with the forest away to the right. Eventually I reached a small burn, crossed it and turned down the east bank of what became quite a deep gorge. After another few minutes descent the track reached a gate through onto the Pipeline Road. There was a sharp bend in the road as it crossed a bridge over the burn. This must be Cantywheery. If so, it should be easy going from here on.

Return to Milngavie

I decided to change out of my hiking shoes into my trainers and try to run back from here (over a mile and a half to Strathblane and about 5 miles to Milngavie). So that's what I did.

It's actually a lovely route to follow along the Pipeline Road, on a decent surface (but not tarmac), with no chance of getting lost. There are several metal gates along the way with a mechanism which requires the lever to be pushed down to open the latch (unlike on the West Highland Way, where the handle has to be pulled sideways). As the road crosses the line of a burn running off the hill to the left, there's a solid stone wall and the water can be heard splashing down into a cavernous hole beneath. Maybe it's being captured by the pipeline? Down towards the end of the road, coming into Blanefield, there are more stone waterworks buildings on the left, all part of the system providing Glasgow with its drinking water, piped from Loch Katrine (like Mugdock Reservoir which I passed later on the way back to Milngavie).

Large exclusive properties lined the left side of the Pipeline Road on its final stretch into Netherton, which merges with Strathblane further east. The junction with the A81 is marked by a war memorial. From here I continued to run along the pavement, following the busy road round to the right past the junction with the A891.

Just around this bend I turned right along Dumbrock Road for a short distance then left onto the Old Mugdock Road. Although it's tarmac this makes a reasonably good return route to Milngavie, with a climb at first up to Mugdock Village and then down steeply through a zig-zag to Mugdock Reservoir. This is the opposite side of Mugdock Country Park from the West Highland Way, and the most direct route back to Milngavie from Strathblane (due south). The road led on for nearly a mile south of the reservoir, finally bringing me back to the car park at the start of the West Highland Way, exhausted!

Timings and final thoughts on the walk

It had taken us three hours of fairly gentle walking to get about 7 miles to the Beech Tree Inn, and after lunch I had taken just over two hours to walk and run back about 8 miles. If you were to do the full circuit at a comfortable walking pace, you should probably allow about 4 hours for the return leg, or about 7 hours altogether plus a lunch break.

I was very pleased to have completed this circuit - it's good to work out a route that you've not actually seen in a guidebook somewhere. It may combine some well-worn paths, and there may be quite a few other walkers out there as well, but it still gives you a bit of a feeling of accomplishment, almost breaking new ground. And the few minutes of uncertainty and unsteadiness on the climb of Dumgoyne made the sense of achievement that much greater.

There must be lots of similar opportunities on other stretches of the West Highland Way - perhaps you could do the whole Way in circular walks, which would at least double the distance but avoid overnight stops. Some people walk long distance footpaths in bite-sized chunks, often using 2 cars, but this would be a different approach, opening up some new walking territory nearby.

Variations

Of course there's no need to take on the short but strenuous climb of Dumgoyne. For those who prefer a lengthy but less adventurous walk, simply walk from the Beech Tree alongside the A81 towards the Distillery, turn up the roadway past the cottages to join the Pipeline Road, and follow it along and down to Strathblane (about 6 km or 3.5 miles from the Beech Tree).

Although the Old Mugdock Road and its continuation, the Mugdock Road, are better for running than walking, they still make a relatively quiet and scenic route to walk back, with scarcely any traffic.

Alternatively you might finish the walk at Strathblane and get a bus back to Milngavie, saving at least an hour of walking on tarmac.

This circular route (excluding the hill) would be pretty good on a mountain bike as well.

Contributed by Andrew Llanwarne - 10 August 2009

< Back to Scotland page for links to other stories

Comments

Join Walking Stories for free to comment on this story. Have an account already? Log in to comment.